KAMRUNAG
Kamarunag is one of the best destinations in Himachal Pradesh.
Relatively less known Himalayan trek, Kamrunag is not even listed well
in the official tourism websites of Himachal Pradesh. Like all other lakes in
Himachal Pradesh, Kamarunag or Kumarwah Lake has its own legend.
The lake is completely frozen in winters and only experienced trekkers should go there during this time of year. Reach at the top and see Mother Nature at its best! Walking on the frozen lake and a slide along the slanting snowy surfaces can be a pleasant experience to anyone. For new trekkers, it is advisable to visit Kamarunag during summers.
All
the way to Kamarunag you will be enjoying the breathtaking views of snow clad
Dhauladhar ranges and Balh Valley. Do not expect the modern amenities to be
present anywhere close to the Kamarunag Lake. It is one of the lakes in
Himachal Pradesh where you can actually find yourself in the wild.
Cultural
and Religious Significance: Kamarunag Lake has enormous religious
significance in the region. Temple of one of most revered deities in Mandi,
known as Kamrunag Dev is situated on the banks of lake. Known as?
Raining God? In the region, people often approach the temple priest in large
numbers to for favorable weather conditions. A fair is held at this place on
14th of June every year. People make various offerings including ornaments,
coins etc.
The Legend Kamrunag :
Like
every other temple, peak, and lake in the Himalayas, this lake too has a story.
It is believed that the Lord KamruNag wanted to participate in the great battle
of Mahabharat. However, he was not allowed to take part in the battle. However,
he witnessed the battle until its end. Villagers
visit the lake and the temple to pray to the Rain God during summers and it is
believed that only after prayers have been offered to the Lord, the rainy
season marks its presence in the valley. Every year a three day fair is held at
this place in the middle of the June. Pilgrims make various offerings including
coins, gold and silver ornaments in the lake.
Before
we start the story, let us get to know a bit about Yakshas (यक्ष), they are benevolent, humans cum demi Gods who take care
of hidden natural treasures.
Read Kamru Shikari
Yatra: Hinterlands of Mandi
Although
I do not take religious scriptures seriously but I find these stories amusing,
hyped, and interesting at the same time. This time we will talk about the
religious importance of Dev Kamrunag in the history of Hindu religion and how
he could have changed our history.
Dev
Kamrunag’s original name was Ratan Yaksh and he was a self learned warrior. He
would practice by keeping Lord Vishnu’s idol in front of him and he considered
it as his master, the Guru. He got to know about the story of Mahabharat being
fought in some far corner of Bharat and decided to take part in it. Brave and
courageous he was, he decided to fight with the weaker party, which meant he
was going to join the army of Kaurav’s. Lord Krishan got to know about it and
he decided to stop the self learned warrior before he could reach the
battlefield. Disguised as a yogi, Lord Krishna appeared before the Yaksh. He
asked him about his journey and told him about the hardships being experienced
by wounded soldiers.
Ratan
Yaksh was listened to the story and it strengthened his determination. Lord
Krishan gave him a tough test to find out the potency of his arrows and said,
“I will be convinced if you can pierce every leaf of that enormous peepal tree
with thy arrow.” When the Yaksh was preparing his arrow, the Lord plucked some
leaves and hid them in his closed fists. To his surprise the arrow pierced even
the leaves in his fists. Then Lord Krishan asked him about his guru, upon which
the Yaksh replied it to be no one but the almighty himself. And there Lord
Krishan spotted an opening, transformed into his actual formless
eternal form, and asked the young man for Gurudakshina, fee
for services he had never offered to his student. The yaksh could not resist
and he had to offer what the Lord had asked for, his head. He gave away his
head and asked the Lord to keep it alive until the Great War was over. The Lord
immediately agreed and blessed him with the same, his head was brought to the
Kamru Hill and today it is known as Kamrunag Temple.
Legend also says that the head was
kept at the Nalsar Lake in Mandi district but because of
climatic/physical/economical problems faced by the head, he was shifted on the
top of the hill, from where he could see the greatest wars of all time, live
and exclusive.
Kamru
Nag Lake:
Kamru
Nag Lake is situated at a height of 3,334
meters above sea level on the Mandi – Karsog road. The lake has enormous
religious significance in the region as the temple of one of most revered
deities in Mandi, known as Kamrunag Dev is situated on the banks of lake.
Kamrunag is a famous weather-god of Seraj valley. People often pray to the
weather God in the temple for favourable weather conditions. Pilgrims take holy
bath during Kamrunag ‘jatar’ in the lake. A fair is held here on 14th of June
every year. People make various offerings especially of gold ornaments, coins
etc. People have been making offerings of gold and other precious metals and
stones since centuries. Thus gold and other ornaments much more than anyone’s
imagination lies buried in the depths of the holy lake of Kamrunag. Thieves
have attempted several times in the past but without any success. During
winters the lake is completely frozen.
How to Reach:
One
can reach Kamrunag either from Rohanda, which is a two hour steep trek, or from
the Jalpa Temple via Chailchowk. The Balh Valley, the Baggi canal, and the
cloudy roads make the ride unforgettable. Reaching Jalpa Temple from
Sundernagar is a matter of not more than three hours. The Jalpa Temple is
located at the dead-end of the road. The temple is built in Pagoda Style and
there is a strange story associated with it. In those parts of Himachal,
construction work of any temple should be done without eating anything but
fruits. Few years ago, when the temple was almost complete, the laborers worked
on eat after they had their full course meal and the temple fell down the very
next day. It was reconstructed again and today it is one of the most beautiful
temples in Himachal Pradesh that I have seen.
The
Jalpa Temple, trek starts from here, park your vehicles, no one would touch
them even after you come after weeks.
Above
the clouds, The Balh valley
The
Baggi Canal, all the way it goes from Pandoh to Sundernagar and a major portion
of it is underground.
Beautiful
Baggi Canal
From
Jalpa temple, it takes four hours to reach the temple and the trek is quite
difficult for the likes of me. I remember going through the same route few
years ago when I was a teenager. My brother tried to chase away a leopard
thinking it to be a dog. Anyways, there are not many landmarks on the way. One
of the landmarks is Jhaur (झौर), which is a shallow hole that
never runs out of water. The hole is not deeper than 50 cm and it remains
covered with leaves, however the water coming out of it can be taken to any
testing ab across the country and it will come 100 times purer than any brand of
water.
झौर, the reservoir that never runs out of water
The
second landmark is Khunda (खुंडा), which marks the start of the
boundary of the Dev Kamrunag. Few years ago, taking shoes, leather items, and
other prohibited things was not allowed beyond this point. People used to walk
the last 500 meters barefoot. But religion changes with time, flexible rules
were slipped in and now you can walk all the way to the top of the hill without
leaving any of your stuff behind.
Do
not expect the modern amenities to be present anywhere close to the Kamarunag
Lake. It is one of the lakes in Himachal Pradesh where you can actually find
yourself in the wild. It is believed that the lake contains gold and silver
worth lakhs as Devta accepts donation only in the form of gold
and silver and that too thrown in the lake.
The
Kamrunag Lake and the Temple
Inside
the temple
One
can also trek to Shikari Devi temple, passing through Kamru Nag and the
distance from Rohanda would be approx 16 kms. Shikari Devi temple is an ancient
temple from the times of Pandavas. The beauty of the entire place has to be
seen to be believed. It is simply heavenly.
Shri Dev Kamru Nag Lake and
Shrine/Chokhandhi. Shri Dev Kamru Nag,(Bada Dev of Himachal)Barbarik of
Mahabharta,son of Ghadothkuch and Maurvi and grandson of Bheem. Also called
Kamal Yaksh(Dhum Ketu).Lord Krishna take his neck by tricks and put it on a
Bamboo (Bans) from where he watch Mahabarata Battle. When the Pandava win they
worship him as there "Thakur" and while going to heaven they take him
with them. He was put at many places which was later known his stahanam,
finally he was put here by Bhim and he was unable to pick him further. He was
slapt by Bhim and blessed with words that remain here and in Kalyuga u will be
worshiped by the people of that time. A water lake is also here on the height of
about 3000 Mtr, with clean blue water which never dried up in the history. A
grand fair is held here on Sangrad of Jeshetha -Asharah.
Nearby cities: Mandi, Shimla, Baddi
Coordinates: 31°28'22"N 77°3'1"E
