MANIMAHESH LAKE
Manimahesh
Lake (also known as Dal Lake,
Manimahesh) is a high altitude lake (elevation 4,080 metres (13,390 ft))
situated close to the Manimahesh Kailash Peak in the Pir Panjal Range of the Himalays, in the Bharmour subdivision of Chamba district of the Indian
State of Himachal Pradesh. The religious significance of this lake is next to
that of the Lake Manasarover in Tibet.
The lake is the venue of a highly
revered pilgrimage trek undertaken during the month of August/September
corresponding to the month of Bhadon
(This
month coincides with August and September)
according to Hindu calendar, on the eighth day of the New Moon (first phase of moon) period. It is known as the
‘Manimahesh Yatra’. The Government of Himachal Pradesh has declared it as a
state-level pilgrimage.
LEGEND
According
to one popular legend, it is believed that Lord Shiva created Manimahesh after
he married Goddess Parvati, who is worshipped as Mata Girja. There are many
legends narrated linking Lord Shiva and his show of displeasure through acts of
avalanches and blizzards that occur in the region.
Legend also mentions that Shiva
performed penance on the banks of Manimahesh Lake. In the same vein, it is
mentioned that Gaddis (The
Gaddis are a tribe living mainly in the Indian states of Himachal
Pradesh and Jammu and Kashmir. They are Hindus and belong to several castes), the tribes of this region, adopted Lord Shiva as their
deity. Gaddis are the people who reside in the Gaddi Valley which is the name
of the upper regions of Ravi River where the Mount Chamba Kailash lies.
Further, according to the legend, the Shiva, who lived in Mount Kailash, the
highest mountain of the state, gifted the Gaddis with a Chuhali topi (pointed
cap), which they wear traditionally along with their other dress of chola
(coat) and dora (a long black cord about 10–15 m long). The Gaddis started
calling the land of this mountainous region as 'Shiv Bhumi' ("Land of
Shiva") and themselves as devotees of Shiva. The legend further states
that before Shiva married Parvati at Mansarovar Lake and became the “universal
parents of the universe”, Shiva created the Mount Kailash in Himachal Pradesh
and made it his abode. He made Gaddis his devotees. The land where Gaddis lived
extended from 15 miles (24 km) west of Bharmaur, upstream of the
confluence of Budhil and Ravi rivers, up to Manimahesh. Manimahesh was also
considered the abode of the three Lords of the universe namely, Shiva, Vishnu
and Brahma. Manimahesh was reckoned as the heaven (Kaliasa) of Lord Shiva. The
waterfall seen at the Dhancho on the way to Manimahesh Lake, and which emanates
from the lake, was considered as the heaven (Vaikunta) of Vishnu. The heaven of
Bramha is cited as a mound overlooking the Bharmaur city. The Gaddis also
believe that Shiva resides in the Mount Kailash for six months, whereafter he
moves to the netherworld handing over the reigns to Lord Vishnu. The day he
departs to the netherworld is observed by the Gaddis reverentially every year,
which is the Janmashtami day, the eighth day of the month of Bhadon (August),
the birthday of Lord Krishna (an incarnation of Lord Vishnu). Shiva returned
from the netherworld to Bharamaur at the end of February, before the night of
his wedding and this day is observed as the Shivratri day; Gaddis observe this
also as a festive day since Shiva and Parvati returned to Mount Kailash in the
Gaddi land.
Etymology of 'Manimahesh' signifies
a "jewel (Mani) on Lord Shiva's (Mahesh's) crown". According to a local
legend, the moon-rays reflected from the jewel can be seen from Manimahesh Lake
on clear full moon night (which is a rare occasion). However, it has been
inferred that such a phenomenon could be the result of reflection of light from
the glacier that embellishes the peak in the form of a serpent around Shiva's
neck.
A legend in which Lord Shiva
himself is tricked is narrated. According to this narration linked to Dhancho
where pilgrims spend a night on their way to Manimahesh Lake, Lord Shiva,
pleased with the devotion of one his ardent devotee Bhasmasur (an asura or
demon) bestowed a boon, which gave powers to Bhasmasur under which Bhasmasur
touching any one would reduce that person in to ashes. Bhasmasur wanted to try
this boon on Shiva himself. He, therefore, followed Shiva to touch him and get
rid of him. However, Shiva managed to escape and enter into the waterfall at
Dhancho and take shelter in a cave behind the rolling waters of the fall.
Bhasmasur could not get through the waterfall. Then, Lord Vishnu intervened and
killed Bhasamasur. Since then the fall is considered holy.
A rare event of the first sun’s
rays falling on the Mani Mahesh peak is seen in reflection in the lake like
saffron tilak. This display in the lake has enhanced the legendary belief of
the Gaddis on the sanctity of Manimahesh Lake at the base of the Mount Kailash,
which they visit on an annual pilgrimage. This event has also contributed to
the practice of taking bath in the lake on Janmashtami day or Radhashtami day,
fifteen days after the birth of Lord Krishna.
GEOGRAPHY
A small lake with pilgrims living in
tents during the annual - Manimahesh Yatra. The lake, of glacial origin, is in
the upper reaches of the Ghoi nala which is tributary of Budhil river, a
tributary of the Ravi River in
Himachal Pradesh. However, the lake is the source of a tributary of the Budhil
River, known as ‘Manimahesh Ganga’. The stream originates from the lake in the
form of a fall at Dhancho. The mountain peak is a snow clad tribal glen of
Brahamur in the Chamba district of manimahesh range. The highest peak is the
Mani Mahesh Kailas, also called ‘Chamba Kailash' overlooking the lake. The
lake, considered a glacial depression, is sourced by snow-melt waters from the
surrounding hill slopes. Towards the end of June with ice beginning to melt,
numerous small streams break up everywhere, which together with the lush green
hills and the myriad of flowers give the place a truly remarkable view. The
snow field at the base of the mountain is called by the local people as Shiva’s
Chaugan Shiva's playground. According to
a belief, Lord Shiva stayed here with his consort Parvati.
Manimahesh is approached from
three routes. Pilgrims from Lahual and Spiti pass through Kugti pass. Pilgrims
from Kangra and Mandi take the Karwarsi pass or Jalsu pass via Tyari village,
near Holi in Bharmour. The easiest and popular route is from Chamba via
Bharmour. The most popular is the
Bhanrlour–Hadsar-Manimahesh route which involves a 13 kilometres (8.1 mi)
track from Hadsar village to the Manimahesh Lake. The highest altitude touched
in this route is 4,115 metres (13,501 ft) and it takes two days with an
overnight stay at Dhancho. Season to be undertaken is June to October and it
has a gentle grade. The path leading to the lake is well maintained.
Half way up this track is 6
kilometres (3.7 mi) of open and flat meadow land to Dhancho. Tented
accommodation is available here during August–September. Night halt is
preferred here. Free kitchens are opened by people to feed pilgrims. But many
prefer to go and pitch their tents next to the lake to feel a divine
experience. En route, there is waterfall at Gauri nallah known as the Dhancho
fall. From Dhancho, it is a steep climb. This track has seen lot of
improvements over the years. In the past the first climb was first done by
crossing Dhancho nalla. It was so tough that people used to crawl to get
across. Since they used to crawl like a monkey in this stretch it was known as
'Bandar Ghati' (monkey valley). Now this track is much improved and the newly
constructed path is used. However, some still prefer to take the old route as
an adventure and go through the Bandar Ghati.
In the past, on the trek from
Dhancho, the bridge over the Mani Mahesh river was crossed to reach the left
bank of the valley. After 2 kilometres (1.2 mi), the river was again
crossed, over another wooden bridge, to the right bank.
From this point, the climb passes
through many zigzag paths along flowered meadows. Birch trees are seen in the
vicinity, which indicates a gain in altitude as the trek proceeds. Along this
stretch of the trek route, there are a number community kitchens (eateries) at
about 3,600 metres (11,800 ft) elevation. From this location, the trail to
Mani Mahesh Lake could be discerned. The waterfall, flowing from the lake, is
also seen at this stage. A further trek of 1.5 kilometres (0.93 mi)
through the grassy ridges leads to the Manimahesh Lake.
LAKE
AND ITS PRECINCTS
Even
though the Manimahesh Lake is of small size with shallow depth, its location,
directly below Manimahesh Kailas peak and several other peaks and dangling
glaciers, is an “inspiration even to the least devout pilgrim.”
Trekking in the last reach is through the
glacier fields of the lake. However, on the way, the walk is through the valley
of flowers and wild medicinal herbs up to the lake. The lake is situated at the
centre of a snowy field touching the sacred peak. The lake is surrounded by
sandy boulders, small hilly mounds and prickly dry bushes, and there is no sign
of any grass. It is called Shiv Chaugan (play ground of Lord Shiva). The lake
appears as if it has penetrated the rugged valley. On a clear day the
reflection of the abode of Shiva, the Kailash Mountain can be seen on the lake
surface. All the year round, the place remains desolate, without any
inhabitants, because none dares to stay here. The air is fresh but icy cold.
There are almost no fauna in the lake at its precincts – no ants, snakes or any
kind of wild life. A few Bird species are sighted rarely. The silence of the
place is broken only when the pilgrims visit the place in large numbers, an
evening before the holy dip (locally known as naun) in the lake.
According to legend, Lord Shiva
performed penance for several hundred years here. The water cascades sprang out
from his matted hair and took the form of the lake. The lake as formed appears
like a saucer. It has two distinct parts. The larger part has icy cold water,
called the 'Shiv Karotri' (the bathing place of Lord Shiva). The smaller part
of the lake, which is hidden by the bushes, has lukewarm water and is called
'Gauri Kund', the bathing place of Parvati, Shiva's consort. Thus, men and
women bathe in different parts of the lake. According to rites, the dip (called
locally as naun) in the lake is taken four times, if permitted or
otherwise only once.
In the periphery of the lake, now
there is a marble image of Lord Shiva, which is worshipped by pilgrims. The
image is called the Chaumukha. The lake and its surroundings present an
impressive view. The still, clear and unpolluted waters of the lake reflect the
snow-capped peaks that overlook the valley. There is also a small temple in the
Shikhara style on the periphery of the
lake. A brass image of Lakshmi Devi known as Mahishasuramardini is deified in the
temple.
PILGRIMAGE
The
holy pilgrimage to the Manimahesh Lake (revered by local people as resting
place of Lord Shiva) is supported by the Government of Himachal Pradesh, Manimahesh
Pilgrimage Committee and several voluntary organizations. For the Gadi tribal
population of the region, pilgrimage to the lake is most holy. It is held every
year during the Hindu month of Badon on Radha asthami, the 15th day following
the festival of Janmashtami, corresponding to the Gregorian month of August or
September. The Yatra or Jatra, as it is called, is also popularly known as the
'Manimhesh Yatra'. It is heralded by a procession known locally as “holy
chhari” (holy stick carried by the pilgrims on their shoulders) trek undertaken
by pilgrims and sadhus. Pilgrims undertake the holy trek barefoot and cover a
distance of 14 kilometres (8.7 mi) from the nearest road point of Hadsar
to the Manimahesh Lake. Lord Shiva is the presiding deity of the yatra. The
colourful procession of the “chhari” is accompanied by singing and recitation
of hymns in praise of Lord Shiva. The Chhari trek, considered a tough trek,
follows a set ancient route with stops at the designated places. To facilitate
this trek, pilgrims are provided with facilities of transport (jeeps up to road
ends), food and medical facilities and so forth. It is a two-day trek to the
lake from Hadsar with a night halt at Dhanchho. Tents are available for hire at
Bharmour or Chamba. Ponies are hired by some devotees for the trek. Direct
trekking from Chamba is also an option undertaken by the devout, which is a
nine-day trek; the route followed is Rakh (20 kilometres (12 mi)),
Bharmaur, Hadsar (12 kilometres (7.5 mi)), Dhancho (7 kilometres
(4.3 mi)) and Manimahesh (7.5 kilometres (4.7 mi)) with a brief halt
at Bhiram Ghati. The return trip follows the same route.
The holy trek starts from the Laxmi
Narayan temple and the Dashnami Akhara in Chamba town, with the sacred stick
('Chhari') of Gur Charpathnath carried by the pilgrims with participation of
sadhus. The trek to the lake takes about 6 days. After the procession arrives
at the lake, ceremonies are held all through the night. On the following day,
pilgrims take a holy dip (naun) in the lake. After taking bath in the
holy waters of the lake, pilgrims circumambulate the lake three times as an act
of reverence, seeking blessings of the Lord Shiva. However, before taking a
final dip in the Mani Mahesh Lake, women devotees take a dip at the Gauri
Khund, which is situated about a mile short of the lake while men take bath at
Shiv Karotri a part of the main lake. The belief is that Parvati, Shiva’s
consort bathed at the Gauri Khund, while Shiva took his bath at the Shiv
Karotri. State priests of Bharmaur Brahmin family perform the worship(Pujas) in
all temples within the lake precincts.
